It happened to be National Wild Salmon Day, and my hopes for flying out of Dillingham were high. The original plan was to celebrate wild salmon on the Goodnews River with a fly rod in hand. That plan, along with my high hopes, sank with low clouds grounding our flight into the heart of the Togiak National Wildlife Refuge. Alaska air travel ebbs and flows with the weather—and so do its visitors.
The next morning the clouds lifted, gear bags got weighed, emotions surged, and our planes took flight from Lake Aleknagik. Out the window of the Cessna float plane, the glacier-carved peaks of the Ahklun Mountains seemed
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