On a sunny day in early March, a friend and I went to Eagle Beach, despite windy conditions and a forecast of 30-40 mph gusts. The weathermen had it right. The north wind was roiling up sizable whitecaps on Lynn Canal. The beach was covered with snow, untouched by the recent low tides, and obscured by billows of drifting snow. Instead of heading north on the beach, as I usually do, we cleverly decided to turn our backs to the wind and, hoods up, we walked down the beach and tide flats toward Eagle River.
Across the canal, the snowy Chilkats gleamed in the bright sun. A gang of
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