Travel

No Caribou

An Arctic Miracle on Hold Seth Kantner and I sat, leaning into our binoculars. The sandy knoll commanded a huge sweep of autumn-bright country—rolling tundra banded with willow and spruce, framed by the ragged,...

Melting Glaciers Create Salmon Habitat

Warming climate may be detrimental to some salmon populations, but it’s creating opportunities elsewhere. A 2021 study forecasted that retreating glaciers in Alaska and western Canada could open thousands of miles of...

A Mix of Traditional and High Fashion at Arctic Luxe

Bobby Brower, right, and two Inupiaq models showcasing parkas and leggings made by Brower. Photo courtesy Yves Brower. Bobby Brower has been interested in fashion since at least middle school. She would watch early...

A Bad Trip in Polar Bear Country

My guide, we’ll call him Hank, picks me up from the Fairbanks airport and makes multiple stops to retrieve gear, all of which appears to date back to the Soviet era. In the truck,...

The Chilkoot Bear Foundation Imagines a Better World for Bears and People

Human-wildlife conflicts are a reality of life in places where population centers mix with the natural world. Dan Egolf, who has spent a lifetime in the wilderness around Haines, envisions a future where it...

The Joy of Fishing Alaska’s Goodnews River

It happened to be National Wild Salmon Day, and my hopes for flying out of Dillingham were high. The original plan was to celebrate wild salmon on the Goodnews River with a fly rod...

Working in Alaska’s Tourism Industry Creates Experiences of a Lifetime

Working in Alaska’s tourism industry is a rite of passage for adventure seekers. For decades, Alaska has drawn a workforce from all backgrounds, including from inside the state, the Lower 48, and internationally—all looking...

Worlds Away on the Accessible Lake Louise Road

Just hours after handing over a fistful of cash in exchange for a lovely, 14-foot Mad River canoe, Emmie and I head northeast on Alaska’s Glenn Highway to explore Lake Louise Road and christen...

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